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Balkan peaks where World War I was really won

A French military officer and a woman stand next to graves at Zeitelnik, the World War I Allied Military Cemetery and memorial park, in ThessalonikiIt was the front where the war which seemed to have no end finally turned, where the world’s first truly global military force was assembled, and where air power’s deadly potential was first demonstrated. This month a French junior defence minister, Jean-Marc Todeschini, flew to Greece “to repair the injustice” by opening the first museum dedicated to the Salonica Front. “They saw themselves as the ‘Forgotten Army’ even as they were fighting,” British historian Alan Wakefield told AFP, their story “just too strange” for the usual Great War narrative. You only have to walk through graves of the long-haired Moroccan spahi cavalry, Senegalese riflemen, Berber zouaves, Vietnamese Buddhists and Malagasy animists who fell for France — all incongruously marked by crosses — to realise this was not the same war you read about at school.

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